Living with Tibetan Refugees: Tashi Palkhiel

February 21, 2011


(In which we sleep poorly and breakfast with monks.) -The Last Stop- This is the third and final installment of our experiences living at Tibetan refugee settlements. I don’t want to overburden the reader, so I’m keeping the writing at a minimum—after two previous Tibetan settlement posts, there’s only so much more a person can […]

Living with Tibetan Refugees: Paljor Ling

January 31, 2011


(In which we make Tibetan bread and are inducted into the elderly women’s circle.) -Karma- Our second camp, Paljor Ling, defies Tibetan camp norms. Instead of being surrounded by trees, hills, or a gorge, it’s surrounded by traffic and a congested, chaotic scene of crowded shops and street vendors. While most other settlements are in […]

Living with Tibetan Refugees: Jampa Ling

January 26, 2011


(In which I am labeled “tourist,” Taylor runs a relay, and I realize how outrageously privileged Americans are.) -A Brief Overview- For months, Taylor and I have been planning to live in the homes of Tibetan refugee families in Nepal. When the Chinese invaded Tibet in the 1950s, Tibetans fled to all parts of Nepal […]

Sadhus A Go-Go!

December 14, 2010


sadhu at Pashupati

In the Pilgrimage to Pashupatinath post I promised to post pictures of sadhus (Hindu holy men) that we saw at the temple. Here they are. These fellows were hanging out at the shrines on the banks of the Bagmati River, but you see sadhus at many a holy site all throughout Nepal. The sadhu lifestyle, […]

Posted in: Hinduism, Street life, Travel

Christmas cheer in South Asia

December 13, 2010



We had our first visitor from home this weekend! Taylor’s dad was on a business trip in Dubai and was able to reroute his flight home to include a stop in Kathmandu. (Sweeeeet.) Sadly, he was only able to stay for one night, but it was enough for a whirlwind tour of KTM and to […]

Posted in: Holiday, Home life

It’s cold and it’s complicated

December 3, 2010


It’s already December, and I’ve been thinking about how to describe the onset of winter in the KTM valley. After much thought, this is how I’d sum it up: It’s complicated. Ever since autumn hit in mid-November, the days have been like daily climate sandwiches: A slice of hot afternoon in between two hunks of […]

My totally surreal Thanksgiving Eve

November 26, 2010


I need to get this down while it’s still fresh in my head. And I didn’t take any photos, so I apologize, you get a photo of my niece and nephew watching TV on Thanksgiving at my parents’ house instead. But this is what happened to me on the day before Thanksgiving in Kathmandu: Taylor […]